Some weeks ago I argued that this Chianti, like so many other red Tuscans, was no longer good value for money. On reflection I think this was unfair. I would still say that, in most years, these wines offer a poorer deal than wines of equal stature from, say, Chile or South Africa. But some years are better than others, and a few are exceptional in every sense. This weeks vintage is undoubtedly one such.
I have heard the Antinori family called the Rothschilds of Italian wine. It would be tr....

