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Meandro Do Vale Me??o 2004, Douro

???Good place, Portugal,??? said a colleague recently. ???I???m thinking of moving there.??? ???Oh? Why OK. Food???s good. So???s the wine.??? That last bit made me perk up. It was over twenty years since I had drunk anything Portuguese, but I could recall the last bottle clearly: an indifferent mass-market ros??. Half-way through it I was struck down by a kidney stone. The pain was shattering. For twenty minutes I writhed on the carpet, yelping like a dog and spewing out ros vomit. Fi....

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