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Linden Claret 2003, Virginia

Ever tried Virginia wine? When it is good, it is very good indeed. And scarcely anyone has heard of it yet, which means there are some real bargains to be had. In 2003 the state of Virginia grew 3,600 tons of grapes, producing 576,000 gallons of wine. By US standards that is not very much, and by no means of all of it has resulted in serious wine. Nevertheless, of the 80 wineries that have started up here over the past quarter-century, at least a dozen deserve close attention. And of these....

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