Sipping this wine the other day, I reflected on how dramatically tastes and habits change. In the 1970s I drank Chablis a lot. Nowadays I drink it once every four or five years. This is not because I like it any less. On the contrary, I am sure I get far more out of it now than I did thirty years ago. So what has changed?
The short answer is “everything”. If the past is another country, the 1970s are another planet. Spacehoppers. Jumbo flares. Chopper bicycles. Kipper ties. Even at the ti....

