The critics are somewhat sniffy about Vino Nobile. “The poor relation of Brunello Di Montalcino,” is how the Oxford Companion to Wine describes it. This seems a dismissive way to talk about a wine which has been around since at least the eighth century, was praised in the sixteenth as “perfect in both Winter and Summer”, and in the seventeenth was exalted as “the king of all wines”.
The consensus seems to be that the Vino Nobile lacks the finesse and elegance of its Tuscan cousins, Brunello and....

