A decidedly unfashionable grape, Riesling. A century ago it was held in much higher esteem. In those days Hocks – Rhenish Rieslings – were better known than white Burgundies, and they commanded higher prices. Nowadays the only people still keen on Riesling live in Riesling-growing areas. The rest of the world has lost interest. Contemporary taste favours wines that are heavily oaked and super-strong. Riesling can be neither.
There may be one other reason for the grapes low popularity. Wi....

