The most surprising thing about this Chianti is how much they make of it: around half a million bottles each year, shipped to more than 80 countries. You would not expect such a wine to be better than competent, perhaps like one of those high-volume Californian reds: clean-tasting, unobjectionable and anonymous. But no description could be less true of this Chianti, which is an elegant, upmarket wine, beautifully perfumed and brimming with character. It has set the standard for all Chianti....

