In the past I have poked fun at the European systems for classifying wines. As these offer no guarantee of quality, I wondered whether anyone really benefited from them and their accompanying bureaucracies (apart from the bureaucrats, obviously). I contrasted this system with the more relaxed approach of the New World, which tends to leave the description of wines, and their reputations, to the market.
The contrast was something of an exaggeration. In point of fact, the US does have a wine a....

